2005 | REGIONAL | SOUTHEAST
By Bobby Bush
Billed as “This Ain’t Your Grandma’s Breakfast,”
the world’s first barley wine breakfast was held at
Dunedin Brewery in December. It was organized
by homebrewer and former Florida Brewers Guild Secretary Ken
Koenig, and 30 people gathered at the Tampa-area brewpub to
enjoy food prepared by Chef Travis Kruger and, of course,
a challenging selection of hefty brews assembled by Cellermaster
Beef brisket, marinated with Sierra Nevada Bigfoot Barleywine-Style
Ale, was accompanied by eggs and bitter baked apples that
had been cooked in Dunedin’s Farm Ale. Bigfoot 2000
was the first-course beverage. Blue Kilted Biscuits comprised
the next round. Stilton Cheese Scones were topped with a choice
of Oregon Marion Berry Jelly, Citrus Jalapeno Pepper Glaze
or Catch a Fire Mango Chutney. The 2003 vintage Bearded Pat’s
Barleywine from Bluegrass Brewing in Louisville, Ky., served
as a chaser.
Highland Balls completed this far-from-light
9:00 a.m. meal. Two homemade sauces accompanied the deep-fried
Scotch Eggs. One was a fiery-hot barbecue sauce made with
“I’ll Have What the Gentleman on the Floor is
Having Barleywine, 2003” from McGuire’s Irish
Pub (Pensacola, Fla.), and the other was a more palatable
sauce made with Denver’s Broadway Brewing 1999 Roundhouse
Barleywine and whole English mustard seeds. Accompanying libations
were the brews used in the sauces.
Following the meal, the entire ensemble packed into vans
and paid a visit to brewer Buzz Brown at Spanish Springs Brewing
in nearby Lady Lake, a sprawling retirement community, and
then to the one-year-old St. Sebastiaan Belgian Microbrewery
in Spring Hill, Fla.
Event planner Koenig is working with the Florida Brewers
Guild on the statewide promotional group’s next event.
The Florida Beer Competition will determine the Sunshine State’s
best beers. Winners will be announced at the Florida Brewers
Guild Annual Beer Fest and Brewers Ball, held February 19–20
in Tampa. See bestfloridabeer.org
Another big beer event for Floridians is the F.A.B. Fest
2005, which will be held in March at Bayfront Park in the
heart of downtown Miami. The six-day Food, Arts and Beverage
fest begins with a kick-off tapping party on Tuesday, March
1, and runs until last call on Sunday, March 6. That final
day includes Dragon Boat Races on Biscayne Bay, a trade session
for industry professionals, a VIP cask ale reception, the
final round of the bartender competition and an eight-hour
beer, food and art festival, which also has sessions on Friday
and Saturday. Check fabfest.com for the complete schedule.
September saw the opening of Thoroughbreds Grill
& Brewery in Leesburg, Va. Brewmaster Dean Lake,
who has a diploma in Technical Brewing Science from Siebel
Institute, has been part of the project almost since its inception.
Previously a brewer at Old Dominion, Lake keeps six ales and
lagers plus a cask-conditioned ale and a couple of guest beers
on tap to complement the “American bistro cuisine”
of Executive Chef Jeff Rodger. Rodger is a grad of the Culinary
Institute of America and has cooked in New Orleans and Washington,
Working with a 10-barrel brewhouse situated in the center
of the dining area, Lake plans to rotate beers frequently.
Among the maybe-regulars are Thoroughbreds Pale Ale (English
style) and Fifty Cat Ale (an IPA). Available now, Dry Mill
Keller Pils is a light, unfiltered lager. Blackstrap Porter
is bolstered with molasses in the brew-kettle, and Ball’s
Bluff Barley Wine is a cold-weather pleaser. Thoroughbreds
is situated in the new 50 Catoctin office complex John Bryce
The former owner/brewer of Blacksburg Brewing,
a Christiansburg, Va., micro, is now working the bottling
line for Old Dominion in Ashburn, Va., with hopes of joining
the brewing staff when an opening becomes available. Following
the demise of his short-lived company, Bryce manned the brew-kettle
for Capitol City in Arlington, Va., before taking the Old
Although it was originally slated for last August, it now
appears that February will be the month that seasoned brewer
Jamie Bartholomaus begins brewing in Winston-Salem, N.C. As
of late December, his 15-barrel Foothills Brewing equipment
(which previously served defunct Cottonwood Brewery in Boone,
N.C.) was in place, in need of plumbing. With brewing license
in hand and labels approved, Bartholomaus and partners —
Brian Cole, a media expert; Matt Masten, a local banker and
financial advisor; and Bob Hiller, owner of Blue Ridge Brewing,
a Greenville, S.C., brewpub — are all anxiously looking
forward to the grand opening of Winton-Salem’s first
With little fanfare, Natty Greene’s Pub &
Brewing Company opened in downtown Greensboro, N.C.,
on August 1. According to well-traveled brewer Scott Christoffel,
the brewpub’s reception has been “really good.”
He already has the seven-barrel brewhouse working overtime,
serving about 20 barrels each week. An 18-year industry veteran,
Christoffel began his career in Winter Park, Fla., and most
recently was head brewer for Left Hand/Tabernash Brewing of
He is struggling to keep six beers on tap. With Natty Greene
Pale Ale, Buckshot Amber Ale, Guilford Golden Ale, Old Town
Brown, and nitrogenized General Stout for mainstays, Christoffel
was pleased that his challenging seasonals, called Scott’s
Honest Ales, have been well received by a growing legion of
regulars. These special brews include a 48-IBU IPA and a gingerbready
Named to honor revolutionary patriot Nathaniel Greene, the
brewpub features “pub fare to nicer fare,” including
farm-raised catfish, handmade buffalo burgers and baby back
ribs. Located in Greensboro’s historic district in a
century-old building that was originally a hotel and later
a grocery store, the brewpub has bars on two floors. Offices
and a well-equipped banquet room reside on the third level.
As if Christoffel has nothing else to do, Natty’s was
just awarded the beer concession contract for the Greensboro
Grasshoppers minor league baseball stadium.
Terrapin Beer Company recently introduced
the second beer in its limited-edition Monster Beer Tour.
As follow-up to October’s 8% abv/75-IBU Big Hoppy Monster,
the Athens, Ga.-based contract brewer unleashed Wake-n-Bake
Coffee Oatmeal Stout in January. According to brewer Brian
“Spike” Buckowski, who also mans the brewhouse
at Atlanta’s Five Seasons brewpub, the new 7.5% abv
imperial stout has a pound of Costa Rican coffee in each barrel.
It’s full-bodied, rich and thick. The Monster Beer series
was designed to “have fun with beer” and to make
the most of Georgia’s newly liberated alcohol law.
Terrapin began as a concept in 1997. With nothing but a business
plan in hand, partners Buckowski and “marketing genius”
John Cochran were unable to raise capital for a brewery. The
company hired the now-defunct Atlanta micro Dogwood to brew
their first full-scale beer in April 2002. Six months later,
Terrapin’s Rye Pale Ale struck gold in the American
Pale Ale category at the Great American Beer Festival. Cream
Ale was introduced in recognition of the company’s second
anniversary and earned a 2004 silver GABF medal!
Maryland’s Frederick Brewing now handles
Terrapin’s brewing. Distribution is expanding beyond
the central Georgia region. Look for kegged, and eventually
bottled, Terrapin beers in Greenville and Columbia, S.C.,
and Asheville, N.C. And yes, Buckowski and Cochran still have
plans to establish their own brewery. Investors, scarce and
uninterested in the late 1990s, are now calling Terrapin with
offers of financial assistance.
937 Douglas Ave.
Dunedin, FL 34698
Thoroughbreds Grill & Brewery
50 Catoctin Cir.
Leesburg, VA 20176
44663 Guilford Dr., Bay 112
Ashburn, VA 24060
Foothills Brewing Co.
638 W. Fourth St.
Winston-Salem, NC 27101
214 E. Martin St.
Raleigh, NC 27601
Natty Greene’s Pub &
Brewing Co. | Visit
345 Elm St.
Greensboro, NC 27401
Terrapin Beer Co.
196 Alps Rd., #2-237
Athens, GA 30606
Bobby Bush is just a good ol’
Southern boy who loves his beer rich and tasty and despises
all things NASCAR. He welcomes comments and sarcasm via