2005 | REGIONAL | ROCKIES
Rocky Mountain Roundup : Working Up A Steam
By Marty Jones
442 Wolverine Dr.
Bayfield, CO 81122
Arctic Craft Brewery
2506 Platte Pl.
Colorado Springs, CO 80909
Shamrock Brewing Co.
108 West Third St.
Pueblo, CO 81003
Down in the southwest corner of Colorado, things are heating
up with Steamworks Brewing Company. The outfit
(started in 1996 in Durango) opened its second location last
April in Bayfield, Colo., some 20 miles east of Durango. General
Manager Jason Keirns said the house has served as many as
18 of its beers at one time and typically hosts four to six
John Hiiva heads up the brewing in Bayfield. His big sellers
are Steamworks’s award-winning Steam Engine Lager (a
California common beer) and Engineer Light Lager (a Munich-Helles-style
beer). Hiiva’s other draft staples are a red ale, a
kolsch, an oatmeal stout and a pale ale. Occasional guest
beers include offerings from the “Bootleggers Society”
— a loose-knit group of area brewers from Steamworks,
Ska Brewing Company, Carver’s Brewing Company and Durango
Brewing who have been collaborating on unique beers.
One of their recent creations was a beer enhanced with fruit
from the prickly pear cactus. Steamworks’s other brewery
collaborations include a joint mug club venture with Ska,
Carver’s and Three Rivers Brewing (in Farmington, N.M.).
The joint efforts are aimed at helping each partner win over
fans from the mainstream market. “It’s not us
against the other guys,” Keirns said of Steamworks's
views of its market. “It’s us against the big
guys, the Buds and the SABMillers. Right now we’re really
developing the idea that this is a great brewing region.”
The brewpub is a smaller version of the original Durango
location. It seats 120 people, compared with Durango’s
400-seat capacity. In addition to producing hand-crafted beer
and food, Keirns said the pub is helping Steamworks expand
its off-premise sales. The brewpub’s 30-barrel system
and four 60-barrel fermenters are filling 12-ounce bottles
of Steam Engine Lager and Engineer Light that are being shipped
up and down the Western Slope of Colorado. The bottled beers
are also heading to New Mexico, thanks to a distribution deal
Steamworks has inked with National Distributors in New Mexico.
“We’re really poised to take off. We’re
very excited,” Keirns said.
The joint efforts are aimed at helping
each partner win over fans from the mainstream beer market.
Colorado Springs has a new microbrewery, the draft-only Arctic
Craft Brewery. Founder and Head Brewer John Dunfee
opened his place in May of 2004, but he shut down a few months
later after losing a few of the tap handles he had secured.
He has now hired a news salesperson and found a new partner
and an assistant brewer, Tom Brown, a local homebrewer turned
working brewer. “Tom just happened to stop in for a
visit on the right day,” Dunfee said, laughing. Dunfee’s
new salesperson is scouring the Springs area for draft lines.
Dunfee’s company name stems from his other enterprise,
Arctic Insulation, also in the Springs. “I wanted to
start a brewery a long time ago,” Dunfee said, “but
it was cheaper to get into the insulation business.”
Colorado Springs residents can try the company’s beers
by stopping in on Friday nights when the brewery’s 12-seat
tasting room is open from 5:00 to 11:00 p.m. To-go growlers
are available on Fridays. Dunfee’s top sellers on his
beer list are his Red Fox Raspberry Wheat Ale and Northern
Lights, a vanilla porter.
Colorado Springs’ Palmer Lake Brewing
(the beer-making half of The Warehouse restaurant) is in limbo.
The restaurant’s management recently decided to suspend
its brewing operations, leaving brewer Alan Stiles out of
a job. At press time, the restaurant/brewpub had brought Stiles
back to brew a few batches of beer, but the fate of the brewing
operations seems shaky. Stiles has taken on a full-time gig
with a new Pueblo brewpub that will open in the old home of
the Irish Pub. Now going through an extensive remodeling,
the late-1800s building is set to open as Shamrock Brewing
Company in May. Stiles said he’ll brew a stout, an Irish
red, a blond ale and seasonal brews at Shamrock, which is
owned by Sean Sanborn. He will be brewing occasional brews
at Palmer Lake, too, while they either find a new brewer or
end their brewing operations.
The first Colorado Brewers Guild’s Firkin Festival
took place on February 26 at Bristol Brewing in Colorado Springs.
Bristol’s Jason Yester reported that the festival drew
100 firkin people who enjoyed a dozen cask beers from Guild
members. Yester said the best firkin beer there was from Wynkoop
Brewing Company’s new brewer, Tom Larson. His gem was
dubbed Seven Year Itch and was a blend of seven vintages of
barley wine blended and aged in an oak barrel. Rockies Brewing
Company’s casked Mojo IPA was another highlight. The
event served as the finale for the Rocky Mountain Micro Symposium,
which kicked off earlier in the week.
Avery Brewing Company has released another
amped-up creation, Maharaja Imperial India Pale Ale. It weighs
in at 9.7% abv, has 112 IBUs and is available in 22-ounce
On the heels of a new Colorado law that allows beer, wine
and spirits tastings in retail stores, Denver’s city
government has initiated steps to allow the tastings. (The
state law requires cities to opt in for the tastings.) Denver
aims to launch a six-month trial of the tastings, which are
already under way in a couple dozen Colorado localities.
Marty Jones is a Denver freelance writer
and leader of Marty Jones & the Pork Boilin’ Poor
Boys, Colorado’s kings of bash-grass and drunky-tonk.
Got beer news from the Rocky Mountain region? Contact him