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JUNE/JULY 2005 | REGIONAL |
WEST COAST
Eldos Grill & Brewery : Four Years and Going
Strong
By Angela Wagner
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| Joe Agrillo, brewer, and
George Smith, owner of Eldos. Photo by
Angela Wagner |
Sometimes you just love a brewpub, and sometimes you love
it even more because the owner and brewer are such great people.
This is definitely the case with Eldos Grill &
Brewery, located in the Inner Sunset district of
San Francisco. Just a few blocks up from the City’s
open-space playground, Golden Gate Park, Eldos will celebrate
its fourth anniversary this summer. With this milestone at
hand, it seemed like a good time to sit down over a pint and
some nachos and reflect with owner George Smith and Brewmaster
Joe Agrillo.
The pub was opened by George, the warmest of restaurateurs,
in 2001. Given that the location already had brewing equipment,
it was decided that the place should remain a brewpub. New
to brewing, George hired Joe to take over the fermentation
reins in 2002. A great selection of beers is produced, including
one of my favorite San Francisco–brewed pilsners, Nine
Ball Pilsner. It’s a traditional Czech-style pils that’s
crisp and refreshing.
A few special beers are in the works for anniversary celebrating.
Joe is brewing a Belgian-style dubbel using Trappist yeast,
as well as a double IPA called the Rumble N-Judah, named after
the public transportation line that runs right by the pub
(with this beer at 8.5% abv, one may need to seriously consider
this streetcar as means of departure!). And, aging nicely
in a Pinot Noir barrel is Joe’s Pollywog Porter. This
is a special wine barrel–aged version of the standard
Eldos porter.
All of this creativity comes from a brewer who was self-taught.
With a rich science background, Joe has always been interested
in fermentation. He has fermented his own miso, wine and cider
and continues to create cyser (an almost-winelike beverage
with apples and honey — kind of like mead meets cider).
Joe got started in professional brewing at the venerable San
Francisco Brewing Company in 1999.
| It’s a warm place
with good people and really good beer. Comfort abounds. |
Joe’s creative side is further exhibited by his musical
talent. He’s a guitarist of formidable skill, and he
frequently plays with the beer industry’s Rolling Boil
Blues Band.
As for the pub itself, it’s a long, narrow space with
touches of photographic art and paintings reflecting a Southwest
theme. To this end, the menu is decidedly California with
a touch of Southwest spice. My favorite menu items include
the pozole soup, fish tacos and quesadillas. You can also
get a great burger, chicken sandwich and fresh fish dishes.
Food is presented in ample portions and goes well with the
beer selections. The nachos are “mountainesque.”
A full bar is featured as well.
As for the neighborhood, Eldos is just down the hill from
the University of California Health Sciences Center, so it’s
a favorite place of many med students and docs. It’s
also a real family neighborhood with lots of regulars that
stop by the pub. Its location, a couple of blocks up from
Golden Gate Park, makes it a natural stop on the way to or
from any park-related activities. It’s a warm place
with good people and really good beer. Comfort abounds.
Heartfelt congratulations to George and Joe on their fourth
anniversary. Look for a summer solstice anniversary party
this summer.
Eldos Grill & Brewery
1326 9th Ave.
San Francisco, CA 94122
415-564-0425
Angela Wagner is a San Francisco–based
writer/photographer.
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