An audible example of the seasonal changing of the guard was the giant sucking sound that emanated from our beach communities in mid-November. While Ross Perot may have originally coined the colorful “sucking sound” expression in reference to the outsourcing of jobs to Mexico and beyond, the responsibility for last November’s earful may be directly attributed to the brewers that dot the Orange County coastline. The above-referenced sound was one of deep inhalation and laced with relief, since the throngs of summer/autumn beachgoers have finally retreated to their inland homes. Also gone are the torturous brew days of piggybacking Hefeweizen and Blonde in seemingly endless cycles as normalcy returns to the beach breweries and bistros.

The fall activities kicked off in Huntington Beach as the Huntington Beach Beer Company & Restaurant celebrated its 15th year in business in the revitalized downtown. The HB Beer Company was the first brewpub in Orange County. It was started by Peter Andriet, who went on to open Newport Beach Brewing Company, Laguna Beach Brewing Company and Tustin Brewing Company. Over the years, the brewpub has won numerous awards for its craft beers, participated in local events and charities, and continued to serve delicious food in a great atmosphere.

To commemorate its 15th anniversary, the HB Beer Company hosted “A Celebration of Brewing” October 1–15, featuring 15 or more local and national craft beers on tap as well as daily giveaways and food specials. “We thought that we would honor the craft brewing industry that we belong to and serve some of the outstanding beers from breweries throughout the United States and Europe,” said Kris Martin, general manager. In addition, brewer Greg Gerovac created an anniversary beer called HB 15, of which he said, “It’s a stronger, darker, generously hopped cousin to our Pier Pale Ale.”

Stop in to raise a pint to celebrate this brewpub’s 15 years of brewing and serving great beer and food. HB Beer Company is located upstairs at 201 Main Street, downtown Huntington Beach. More information may be obtained at hbbeerco.com.

A quick trip down the coast shows that not only did the Newport Beach Brewing Company survive its 12th anniversary, but brewer Kirk Roberts is pulling out all the stops as we approach the end of this year. NB Brewing’s Oktoberfest celebration on October 2 featured two successful flights: one from 4:00 to 7:00 p.m. (for those with real jobs) and one from 8:00 to 11:00 p.m. (for the rest of us).

NBBC's Oktoberfest went well, as a slew of German guest beers flowed freely. Kirk’s bag of tricks continues; rumor has it he will be treating patrons with special editions of his 12th Anniversary Quad and Dead Cowboy Imperial Stout — both allegedly aged in Elmer T. Lee bourbon whiskey barrels.

One of the worst-kept secrets in the O.C. beer community is the wildly successful Beachwood BBQ in Seal Beach, which opened just one short year ago. This tiny (three barstools!) barbecue shack is located at 1311⁄2 Main Street and is better known by its tagline, “Where the Fork Meets the Pork.” The Memphis barbecue is stellar and served with four tableside sauces: St. Louis (sweet), mustard, vinegar and spicy. The sides (two per entrée) perfectly complement every dish. For a real treat, try one of Lena’s Famous Fried Pickles.

Owner Gabriel Gordon hand-selects the 10 rotating draught offerings, and there is never a bad banana in the bunch. Appearances from Russian River, Moonlight, Lightning and Avery are common, so it behooves beer lovers to stop by early and often. Seating is extremely limited (note the “1⁄2” in the address), but expansion is under way, with the city approving a takeover of the shop next door. Once completed, a new West Coast Beverage draught system will pour 20 beers and allow Gabriel an even greater beery assortment.

Although Seal Beach has seemingly been defined by its myriad of Irish and sports bars, across and up the street from Beachwood BBQ is Belgian mainstay The Abbey. The 12 taps behind the bar contain an eclectic mix of Belgian, German and continental beer choices in an effort to find something for everyone. Beer presentation is done with proper glassware whenever possible — an uncommon, appreciated touch. New owners Jim and Roxy Liggett are slowly bringing The Abbey new beer and food choices, so stay tuned to this station for further updates.

BJ’s Restaurant and Brewhouse in Brea gets my vote for most original beer name of the year with its Helles Keller, which (as the old-world name implies) is an unfiltered, no-nonsense, extremely tasty lager of mixed pedigree. In addition, a different new cask goes on almost every Thursday at 5:00 p.m.

Speaking of real ale, Back Street Brewery in Ladera Ranch is also tapping a new cask on the first Thursday of every month, in a program piloted by brewing assistant Ron (my beers aren’t) Bland. The first several firkins have been a huge hit, and it is not unusual for the cask to blow within 24 hours. Cask craziness isn’t limited to South County, though, as TAPS Fish House & Brewery in O.C.’s northernmost city of Brea features Victor Novak’s cask beer on a daily basis. And Dave Moody removes the real ale spile every other month at the Irvine Back Street Brewery location.

Batch No. 01 at The Bruery will be a Belgian-style golden strong ale named Levud's, which is Duvel spelled backwards. The winning entry was brewed and submitted by Loren Miraglia of Encinitas and brewing partner Mark Graham of San Clemente. Batch No. 01 should be in the tank now that the health department has been convinced that Patrick Rue isn’t opening his production facility just to mow down beer critics.

Possibly the very best news is that all 19 of O.C.’s breweries have seemingly survived the 2007 fire season unscathed. They extend with me their heartfelt condolences to those negatively affected by the Southern California wildfires.