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| Sam Calagione (Founder/President of Dogfish Head), and
next to him is Rob Tod (Founder of Allagash Brewing). |
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LAS VEGAS — The 70th annual National Beer Wholesalers
Association Convention and Trade Show convened in Las Vegas
Sept. 30 through Oct. 2 and attracted a record number of more
than 3,800 industry representatives. The convention was a chance
for distributors to research all that’s available in the
world of brewing, while the trade show was a showcase of breweries
from all over the world representing virtually every beer style.
I did my own research and discovered 282 exhibitors on the
trade show floor, with several new and old favorites available
for sampling. 23 craft breweries were represented in the Craft
Beer Garden, but the rest of the trade show appeared to be
dominated by artisanal beer sporting plenty of robust flavors.
No surprise there, as the craft beer industry continues to
be the fastest growing segment in the entire US beverage alcohol
industry. The evidence is a 17.4% increase in dollar sales
from 2006, and for the first time ever, craft beer has exceeded
more than a 5% dollar share of total beer sales.
Will Hamill and Steve Kuftinec were promoting Uinta, their
brewery from Salt Lake City. Uinta destroys the myth that
they make only wimpy beer in Utah with its XIV Anniversary
Barley Wine, a 10.4% abv full-flavored brew celebrating the
brewery’s 14th anniversary. An earlier version of this
brew placed third at the 2007 Toronado Barley Wine Festival.
Their newly revamped Monkshine, a Belgian-style pale ale with
the color of a triple and alcohol strength of a dubbel, has
been increased from 4% to 6% abv and is produced with Belgian
yeast strains. New to the line are Wildfire, a USDA certified
organic extra pale ale made with organic barley; and Punk’n,
a harvest pumpkin ale. The brewery is 100% wind-powered, its
delivery truck runs on bio-diesel and it recycles its six-pack
carriers and bottles. Their efforts towards protecting the
environment have been recognized with awards from the EPA
and US Department of Energy. Uinta is no stranger to awards
in the brewing world, having earned 8 GABF, 6 WBC and 31 North
American Brewers Association honors.
Starr Hill Brewery, from Charlottesville, Virginia, must
be doing a lot of things right, and the proof was in its 11
GABF medals that were displayed on its booth’s serving
table (closely guarded, of course). Award-winning beers being
served were Jomo Lager, which won a GABF gold, silver and
bronze in three consecutive years; Dark Starr Stout, which
won GABF honors in four out of six years that it was entered;
and Pale Ale, which won GABF gold two years in a row.
Shipyard Brewing from Portland, Maine, sailed in with Sea
Dog Wild Blueberry (made with real blueberries) and Pumpkinhead
(brewed with nutmeg, allspice and pumpkin pie spice). Both
beers’ unique flavors jump right out at you and leave
no doubt as to what ingredients you’re tasting.
Delaware’s Dogfish Head’s Founder Sam Calagione
was serving his 90-minute IPA, made with a dry hop machine
that hops continually throughout the boil resulting in a beer
that’s full of hop flavor without being overly bitter.
His new hopping machine is called Sofa King Hoppy, a massive
air cannon that fires hops into the kettle while allowing
the lid to remain closed. Some unique historical reproductions
are the Midas Touch Golden Elixir-a cross between a beer,
wine and mead, showcasing ingredients that were in the 2,700-year-old
drinking vessels found in King Midas’s tomb, made with
muscat grapes, saffron and honey; and Chateau Jiahu-inspired
by preserved pottery from Northern China dating back to 7,000
BC using rice flakes, barley malt, honey, Muscat grapes, Chrysanthemum
flowers and Hawthorne fruit. Dogfish Head recently expanded
its brewhouse to a 100 barrel system, bringing its new capacity
to 220,000 barrels (41,000 were produced in 2006).
Leave it to Stone Brewing Company to push the limit on how
many IBU’s one’s taste buds can handle. The 7.7%
abv Ruination IPA weighs in with over 100 IBU’s, and
is aptly named, since the human palette can’t actually
taste more than 100. The Oaked Arrogant Bastard Ale is yet
another out of the ordinary brew, aged with toasted American
oak chips.
Some IPA’s worth mentioning that I was fortunate enough
to sample are: Saranac Imperial IPA-from its big beer series;
Deschuttes Inversion IPA-a true IPA at 7% abv and 85 IBU’s;
Victory Hop Devil Ale-made with American whole flower hops;
and Rogue I2PA-an Imperial IPA packaged in a black silk-screened
ceramic 750 ml bottle.
| The craft beer industry
continues to be the fastest growing segment in the entire
U.S. beverage alcohol industry. |
Sam Adams introduced its 8.8% abv Imperial Pilsner, made
with Hallertau and Mittelfrueh hops to the tune of 12 pounds
per barrel. Compare that to the one pound that’s in
a barrel of its Sam Adams Lager. Definitely a showcase for
hops, it’s without a doubt the hoppiest brew I’ve
ever encountered from Sam Adams. Any hophead worth his buds
will want to check it out.
There was no shortage of breweries proving that you don’t
have to leave the US to enjoy brews as big and flavorful as
those produced in Belgium. Allagash, out of Portland, Maine,
is becoming sought out for its Belgian-style creations. Founder
Rob Tod poured his 9% abv Tripel Reserve (golden, passion
fruit and subtle suggestions of banana and honey). A great
beer in its own right, it’s also produced in a version
called Curieux (which means curious). Aged for two to three
months in bourbon barrels obtained from Jim Beam, the beer
picks up a soft vanilla character with quite noticeable bourbon
tones. Alagash continues to grow with distribution in 23 states
and a new larger facility that’s already near capacity.
Brewery Ommegang, from Cooperstown, New York, featured its
Belgian-style ales, pouring its Hennepin-Farmhouse Saison
with coriander and ginger notes; Ommegang-8.5% abv Abbey Ale
with caramel and toffee flavors; Witte-traditional White Ale
spiced with coriander and orange peel; Rare Vos-Belgian Amber
Ale with caramel flavor and a dry hop finish; and Three Philosophers-Belgian
Quadruple mixed with cherry-infused lambic from Belgium.
Another American brewery with Belgian tendencies is Victory
Brewing out of Downington, Pennsylvania. I was impressed with
its Twelve, a Belgian-inspired ale of 12% abv that sported
big flavors, backed up by big hops; and Golden Monkey-a 9.5%
abv Belgian Triple with abundant herbal and fruity notes.
Wolaver’s Organic Ales, from Middlebury, Vermont, is
celebrating its 10th year of producing organic beer, using
only organic barley and hops grown by small independent farmers.
Its 10th Anniversary Farmhouse Ale is a Belgian-style Saison,
and the brewery is showing its commitment to furthering organic
farming by donating 10% of its sales to the Organic Farming
Research Foundation.
Flying Dog Brewery, from Denver, Colo. had plenty of brews
to make a dog feel like flying, especially its Snake Dog IPA
(6.4% abv and 60 IBU’s) and Horn Dog Barley Wine (10.5%
abv and 45 IBU’s). Soon to be released is the Wild Dog
Doppelbock Collaborator, a limited release experimental brew
that was created in response to a blog that was set up to
see what the brewery’s fans wanted. Only 5,000-750 ml
bottles have been produced.
Oscar Blues Brewery, from Lyons, Colo. is espousing a canned
beer apocalypse, asserting that great beer doesn’t have
to pour from a bottle or keg. The company’s rationale
is that cans offer the best protection from light and oxidation
and allow for easy transport. On the serving table were Dale’s
Pale Ale, a 6.5% abv hoppy pale made with all-American hops,
and Old Chub, a hearty 8% abv Scottish Style Ale.
The Anchor Brewing wooden serving bar was a familiar sight,
with Anchor’s Bob Brewer and John Dannerbeck tapping
the hoppy Liberty Ale, venerable Anchor Steam, rich and chewy
Old Foghorn barley wine, Summer Wheat Ale and Bock Beer. It
would appear that the Bock Beer is gaining world-wide recognition;
John reports that it is especially popular in Sweden.
Binding Brauerei USA featured several European brews, including
Radeberger Pilsner. Brewed in the Dresden suburb of Radeberg
since 1872, Radeberger has the distinction of being the first
German brewery to ever brew the classic pilsner style. In
1905, his Majesty King Frederic August of Saxony decreed that
the Radeberg Export Brewery would become the "Royal Court
Brewery of Saxony." Before the fall of the iron curtain,
it was so in demand that it was used as a secret secondary
currency by the East German government as barter in exchange
for goods from other communist countries. New to Binding’s
portfolio is Krusovice, a Czech Imperial lager that won a
gold medal at the 2006 World Beer Cup. Natural spring water
from the Krivolat Woods, and hops from the Zatec region are
used in the production, resulting in a sharp, hoppy, robust
brew. The brewery dates back to 1581 and the Bohemian Royal
Crown.
Merchant du Vin brought out a stunning array of imports that
included Orval, Lindemans, Samuel Smith, Ayinger Celebrator
Doppelbock, and Pinkus Organic Hefe-Weizen. New to its portfolio
is Zatec, a nicely balanced full-flavored Czech lager that
has been produced in the city of Zatec since 1801. Zatec is
the Czech name of the hop that most Americans know as Saaz,
which is the German translation. Since the regional hops cooperative
is just a few blocks from the brewery, and the hops are grown
in the fields around the city, the brewers pick up the hops
immediately before brewing.
Warsteiner brought some new mixes to give Americans a taste
of how they drink soda in Germany. Its new line, set for a
spring release in the States, mixes beer with lemonade (Radler),
lemon lime (Lemon), Orange and Cola. All are a 60/40 mix of
beer and additives and weigh in at a mere 2.9% abv.
Total Beverage Solution imports high-caliber beers from England
and Germany, including Abbot Ale, Old Speckled Hen, Greene
King IPA, Olde Suffolk, and brews from Weihenstephan, the
world’s oldest operating brewery dating from 1040. A
new US release from the brewery is Weihenstephaner Vitus,
a 7.7% abv bock that is made from a 1780 recipe of the beer
that provided the sole sustenance for fasting monks.
Another brewery from antiquity is the Namyslow Brewery, established
in 1321 in the town of Namyslow, Poland. Introduced were Plum-the
first plum beer to ever hit the Polish market; and Malina-a
raspberry blend of bitter and sweet. Both versions are packaged
in 500 ml cans.
The land down under was represented by Coopers, which brought
its seasonal Vintage Ale, a bottle conditioned 7.5% abv strong
ale brewed with an extended top fermentation and with Saaz,
Cascade and Hersbrucker hops.
Daniel Thwaites Brewery, independent family brewers from
Blackburn, Lancashire, brought out its Double Century Celebration
Ale, created to celebrate its 200th year of brewing. This
5.2% abv amber ale has a malty character and a bitter orange
finish that’s derived from a late addition of Bramling
Cross hops.
Owner/Brewer Hugues Van Poucke of La Brasserie d’Ecaussinnes
was pouring his unique Belgian beers: Cookie Beer-named after
Speculoos cookies because it uses the same spices; La Penneffoise-8%
abv, made with fresh prunes; and Ultramour-made with four
fruits: raspberry, strawberry, cherry, and a secret one, resulting
in a wonderful blend with an enticing aroma. The brewery is
located 20 miles southwest of Brussels.
Other Belgians worthy of sipping were Brasserie de Rocs Triple
Imperiale-a 10% abv complex compilation of coriander, ginger
and several types of barley; Brewery Van Den Bossche Pater
Lieven Tripel-a 9% abv Tripel Abbey Ale; Brewery Belgoobeer
Belgoo Magus-brewed with barley, oats, wheat and spelt; and
Brasserie La Binchoise Biere des Ours-8.4% abv with honey
added before fermentation.
This was my fifth time attending the trade show, which has
become noticeably dominated by craft beer choices, a trend
that has grown exponentially over the past eight years. If
this trade show is any indication, it would appear that more
and more distributors are embracing the craft beer segment
as it slowly but surely chips away at the pie, securing a
larger piece of its share of the beer market.
The NBWA is a major beer biz convention that wisely comes
to Vegas every other year and alternates in other cities (sans
trade show). Next year’s convention will meet in San
Francisco, Sept. 14-17. For more information visit the NBWA’s
website at nbwa.org. |