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2011 » BACK
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December 2011/January 2012
That Was The Beer Year That Was
Tom
Dalldorf |
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| Several years ago at the Craft Brewers Conference, Kim Jordan, cofounder and president of New Belgium Brewing Company in Fort Collins, Colo., suggested that craft beer might grow to be 10 percent of American beer production in the next 10 years. There were a few snickers of incredulity at the time. Today, it looks like Ms. Jordan might have even underestimated craft beer’s growth in the American beer market.
The Brewers Association and Symphony IRI Group, both of which track brewing industry statistics, reported dollar sales for craft beer being up 15 percent for the first half of 2011, meaning that craft beers are on pace to achieve their sixth consecutive year of double-digit dollar sales growth in supermarkets. The two organizations also announced that craft beer has, for the first time, reached a 10 percent dollar share of the overall beer category in supermarkets — nearly double what it was in 2005. The craft segment seems destined to reach 10% overall market share sooner rather than later.
The top 15 brands account for 40 percent of all craft dollar sales. The best-selling brand is Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. Canned craft beer offerings are continuing to grow, with 12-ounce cans up 121 percent over 2010. And we’re talking about assertively flavored craft beer, too. The India pale ale category has passed pale ale to become the number two selling craft beer style in supermarkets. In the beer-loving state of Oregon, craft beer has outsold premium brands since October 31, 2010. The big guys are nervous.
The craft beer industry is a job creator, too! Craft breweries continue to grow despite many challenges. They currently provide an estimated 100,000 jobs and contribute significantly to the U.S. economy. Beer production by craft brewers for the first half of 2010 was an estimated 4.6 million barrels, compared with 4.2 million barrels sold in the first half of 2009.
America now has 1,790 breweries, according to the Brewers Association, an increase of 165 breweries since June 2010. The BA also tracks breweries in planning as an indicator of potential new entrants into the craft category, and it lists 725 breweries in planning today, compared with 389 a year ago. Not all of them will make it to market, but the numbers are astounding and bode well for the continued growth of the craft beer segment.
The Celebrator Beer News is honored to have been a part of, and an observer of, this amazing growth over the last nearly quarter century. With our next issue, the Celebrator will celebrate 24 years of spreading the word about good beer. Many thanks to our dedicated subscribers and readership for their support of our efforts over the years. We’re looking forward to covering the beer story in the decades ahead. The great beer we all now enjoy and celebrate is our reward.
A 2011 Retrospective
What a year it was! We began 2011 without the services of our longtime San Diego associate editor, Rich Link, who retired after 22 years on the beer beat. Later, we lost longtime correspondent (and 1998 Beerdrinker of the Year) Bobby Bush, who covered the southeastern part of beer country for us. We welcomed the beer-savvy writing talents of Brandon Hernández, who now covers the vibrant beer scene in San Diego County. Check out his report on San Diego Beer Week in this issue.
The iconic Brickskeller closed in Washington, D.C., but its sister beer-focused restaurant, RFD (Regional Food and Drink), continues to bring the good stuff to the nation’s capital. John Hickenlooper, founder of Wynkoop Brewing Company in Denver, entrepreneur brewpub creator and eventual mayor of Denver, moved up to become governor of Colorado (go, John!) and still had time to address the brewers at the GABF awards ceremony this year. Beer guys rule — literally.
In 2011 we saw the maturing of Beer Weeks all over America. Philly Beer Week set the bar high some four years ago, and now almost every major (and some not-so-major) city has a beer-focused week of its own promoting great craft beer.
The Celebrator hosted a highly successful Brews Cruise to Alaska, in which some 80 beer lovers enjoyed tastings, lectures, dinners and tours on a cruise ship from Seattle to the Inside Passage and back. More beer cruises are planned for 2012.
The Celebrator also covered the Kona Brewers Festival, which was wiped out by the Japanese tsunami but managed to open a day later in a new location — a testament to brewer tenacity, to be sure.
Passings
In 2011 it was our sad duty to report the passing and document the lives and times of far too many contributors to world beer culture. In the Celebrator’s February/March 2011 issue, we reported on the death of Bruce Nichols in late 2010. Nichols, cofounder of Philly Beer Week and sponsor of Michael Jackson’s legendary beer lectures at the University of Pennsylvania’s Museum of Anthropology and Archeology, died unexpectedly.
Legendary publican Don Younger, founder of the Horse Brass Pub in Portland, Ore., passed away on January 31 after a short illness. There was a tremendous outpouring of love and affection for him, including a memorial gathering attended by beer lovers from around the country and the world.
“Rocket” Rod Romanak, homebrew evangelist, died on February 4 from complications of melanoma on the island of Hawaii.
Another beer legend, Pierre Celis, died on April 9. Mr. Celis literally revived a lost beer style in creating his Hoegaarden Wit beer, first in the tiny village of Hoegaarden, Belgium, and later at his Celis Brewery in Austin, Texas.
New York City beer pioneer Ray Deter, founder of d.b.a., died in a bicycle accident on July 3 in the city he loved. A huge New Orleans–style funeral parade paid tribute to his many contributions to beer in New York and New Orleans.
Yet another pub pioneer, David Farnworth, founder of Lucky Baldwins Pub in Pasadena, Calif., and several sister pubs, died just recently. Please see our remembrance in this issue.
These giants of beer culture made enormous contributions to what we now think of as commonplace: great beer served properly by knowledgeable staff in comfortable beer-centric surroundings. Give some thought and thanks to them and to what they left behind, which we can enjoy every day. Onward… |
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October/November
2011
Caffeine in Beer & Beer and Food
Tom
Dalldorf |
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California
Legislature Reacts to Caffeine in Beer
To err is human; to really screw things up takes a legislature.
The California State Legislature took up the noble task
of dealing with high alcohol and caffeine in malt beverages
— some of which exceeded 12% abv! — which
seems to be all the rage for the new-to-alcohol set. The
result was that some craft-brewed beer with essence of
coffee, chocolate or tea would have been banned, along
with the artificially induced high-alcohol and highly
caffeinated buzz drinks marketed to the 20-something hipsters.
Talk about throwing out the baby with the bathwater.
Fortunately, in stepped the California Small Brewers Association,
headed up by Tom McCormick. Responding to calls from member
brewers about the scope of SB 39, the bill proscribing
caffeinated drinks, the CSBA worked with the bill’s
author (Democratic Senator Alex Padilla) to develop language
that does not impact craft beers with natural ingredients
such as chocolate, coffee or tea. The bill specifically
allows “caffeine as a constituent of a natural ingredient,
such as coffee, chocolate, or tea.” What? Common
sense won for a change? Most excellent.
The California Small Brewers Association is a nonprofit
industry group dedicated to the legislative interests
of small brewers in the state and beyond. All California
breweries should consider membership, as all breweries
benefit from CSBA activities and scrutiny. Proudly display
your CSBA member sticker and encourage fellow brewers
to do the same. Brewers in other states with similar organizations
are also joining their state organizations for a common
cause. Consumers will take note and patronize those who
support the industry.
Beer and Food
We’re only 11 years into the 21st century, and already
beer has attained credibility as a worthy beverage with
fine food, alongside wine. Considering that the “good
beer” movement is only some 30 years old, that is
quite an accomplishment. The Celebrator has been
doing a Beer and Food issue for over 10 years, and today
beer dinners and gastropubs are commonplace. Recently, Social Kitchen & Brewery in San Francisco
hosted a beer dinner featuring Thai-Italian cuisine with
Belgian and American-style beers. Wow! Talk about a mash
up of styles, cultures and traditions. And it sounds wonderful!
This issue features many articles on the subject, including
one by our resident foodie, Lucy Saunders, who takes us
on a cruise through Chicago’s burgeoning gastropub
scene, European traveler Chuck Cook tells us how to eat
and drink well in Belgium (who knew?). Jack Curtin points
with pride to the Philly good beer and food scene. Brandon
Hernández will not be outdone in this department,
talking about his home base of San Diego. And Fred Eckhardt
talks about a good beer dinner at home.
It is now possible for you, the beer-loving enthusiast,
to bring a bottle of great beer to a restaurant and offer
to pay corkage (cap-age?) to enjoy your beverage of choice
with the establishment’s great cuisine. It is a
good time to be a beer lover. |
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LETTERS
TO THE EDITOR (October/November 2011)
Dear Editor:
I am inquiring to see what is needed from me to
gain access to the secure webpages linked to the
Lagunitas Beer Festival event. Thank you for providing
the Celebrator. It is welcomed by my friends
and myself.
Regards,
Earl Cullum
San Diego, California
Dear Earl:
We need to know that you are not a registered
naughty boy or stalker. That being dealt with, you
can access the “Mature Audience” photos
at Celebrator.com via the username "lagunitas"
and password "heyrube". Thanks for the
kind words and your keen interest in beer art like
the fabulous Lagunitas Beer Circus — Ed. |
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August/September
2011
Brave New Beer World Tom
Dalldorf |
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In the midst of unprecedented
success, the craft beer industry is changing — and
we can only hope that it is for the better. Growth of
the craft brewing industry in 2010 was up 11 percent by
volume and 12 percent by dollar sales, compared to growth
in 2009 of 7.2 percent by volume and 10.3 percent by sales,
according to the Brewers Association in Boulder, Colo.
No other segment of the “adult beverage” market
even comes close to such numbers.
The overall U.S. beer market is in decline. U.S. beer
sales as a whole were off last year, while craft beer
climbed to new heights. Imported beer sales were off significantly
in the last two years despite that category’s dominance
just 10 years ago.
But don’t count out the big players just yet. They
are desperate for category growth and sales.
The watchword for many years now has been “consolidation.”
It started in a big way several years ago when beer distributors
began gobbling each other up, leaving fewer houses to
manage an ever-growing list of brands. Family-controlled
Anheuser-Busch was blindsided by a hostile takeover by
Belgian-Brazilian InBev nearly three years ago —
a move that newly appointed President August Busch IV
greeted with “over my dead body.” He lives,
but his company is now owned by foreign interests. Miller
did a marriage of convenience with Coors (now owned by
South African Breweries). As a consequence, craft breweries
are increasingly the targets of big-beer expansion.
On the craft side, Pyramid bought Portland several years
ago and was in turn acquired by Magic Hat, who promptly
sold the conglomeration to North American Breweries. The
venerable Anchor Brewing in San Francisco sold to the
Griffin Group. The Anheuser-Busch InBev–controlled
CBA (Craft Brands Alliance), owners of Widmer and Redhook,
bought Kona Brewing. Centerbridge Capital Partners purchased
Rock Bottom Restaurants, including the Old Chicago chain
of multitaps as well as the extensive Gordon
Biersch Brewery Restaurant chain. A-B InBev also picked
up Chicago’s Goose Island Beer Company and its popular
312 brand (Chi-town area code). Word on the street has
A-B InBev attorneys busy getting the TM on area codes
around the country. And that’s the 411 on that.
Meanwhile, growth in the craft segment is nothing short
of astounding. Veteran Sierra Nevada is looking to open
a new brewing facility east of the Mississippi, as are
some other Western craft brewing behemoths. Rapid expansion
is the norm for many regional craft brewers, such as New
Belgium, Stone and Lagunitas. New Belgium is investing
in a new high-speed canning line, and Cold Spring Brewing,
an old-school regional brewery in Minnesota, has invested
in state-of-the-art brewing equipment to handle its expanding
contract work.
All this can mean more good beer being made by fewer people.
We at the Celebrator think it’s all about the beer.
If the quality remains high (with names like Anchor and
Sierra, one would expect that to be the case), beer lovers
will ultimately benefit. With capital-conscious entities
looking to recoup vast investments, we cannot be too sure.
Listen to your beer (as Fred Eckhardt is fond of saying);
therein lies the answer. |
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LETTERS
TO THE EDITOR (August/September 2011)
Dear Editor:
Regarding the CBN Blind Tasting Panel for the June/July
issue, is it just me, or is it official or commonplace
language to compare the aroma of a beer, in this
case the Golden Pheasant pilsner (Hurbanovo Brewery,
Slovakia), to “freshly opened tennis balls,”
or the aroma of the Karlovacko Beer (Karlovacka
Pivovara, Karlovac, Croatia) to “cooked vegetables”?
Strange thing is, I want to find the Golden Pheasant
pilsner and then hit the sports shop for a can of
balls just to find out. Tell your tasters to keep
up the demanding and no doubt enjoyable work.
Sandy Sears
Anchorage, Alaska Dear Sandy:
We here at the Celebrator have been accused
of having a lot of balls… and we do. Some
of which are tennis. Thanks for noticing our eclectic
descriptors. Hope the T-shirt we sent you fits.
No mediums, sorry. — Ed. |
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June/July
2011
A Great Time To Be A Beer Lover Tom
Dalldorf |
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The U.S. craft beer industry
recently gathered in San Francisco for a conference and
trade show and a chance to meet and exchange ideas and
information. In many industries, such gatherings can be
dreary, cagey affairs with trade secrets and market jealousies
coloring the social interaction. Not so the craft beer
industry. The Craft Brewers Conference in San Francisco
was more like a college reunion of classmates and alumni
eager to meet new attendees and greet old friends and
colleagues.
This is not to say that there isn’t competition
for market share and innovative strategies for product
development among craft brewers. There remains, however,
an open camaraderie in the beer industry that is unique
in the business world. Perhaps it’s the multiple
hospitalities and free-flowing beer that create such a
warm and felicitous spirit at beer industry gatherings.
This upbeat gathering was aided in no small part by the
summary of new statistics from the Brewers Association,
released just before the start of the conference. The
most recent data on the performance of the craft brewing
industry showed that it continued to set new records of
growth and dollars earned. The overall number of breweries
in America has grown to levels not seen since the pre-Prohibition
era. There are now over 1,760 breweries operating in the
country — a huge increase from the perigee of producing
breweries in the ’70s. The Brewers Association also
reported that craft beer production was heading toward
the 10 million–barrel mark, worth some $7.6 billion
in revenue. Craft beer remained the only bright spot in
the overall national beer production picture.
Forty years ago, we were a nation of light lager drinkers.
It was world travelers and homebrewers who reintroduced
ales and other beer styles to their myopic lager-drinking
countrymen. There are now over 100 beer styles recognized,
sold and judged in this country. Change you can believe
in — if you are a beer lover.
Our job as informed consumers is to support our craft
beer industry members by enjoying and sharing the fruits
of their labors. We can do this by example in our buying
habits and by suggesting to less enlightened retailers,
restaurants and pubs that they consider broadening their
selection of good beer and appealing to the ever-growing
number of consumers of craft beer.
This is a great time to be a beer lover! Spread the word. |
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LETTERS
TO THE EDITOR (June/July 2011)
Dear Editor:
I thought your in-memoriam issue to Don
Younger was very well done. He sounded like
quite a character.
Bob Atkinson
Pleasanton, California Dear
Bob: Thanks for the kind thoughts.
Character-wise, we only scratched the surface of
the man that was Don
Younger. His contribution to the beer culture
in the Pacific Northwest was incalculable. —
Ed.

Dear Editor:
To judge from the plethora of your pix in the current
issue [grrrrrrrr!], it looks like this publishing-a-beer-mag
regimen is good for you! I can’t tell you
how sad I am that you “came out” as
Hop Caen. I much preferred the mystique that surrounded
your nom de plume.
Miles Jordan
Chico, California Dear Eric:
Thanks, I think. Yes, beer publishing been beery,
beery good to me. Thanks for noticing. The Hawaii
trip was a mix of a very tragic tsunami and a very
successful beer festival pulled off by the Kona
Brewing folks.
I started writing Hop Caen in September of 1990
as an excuse to combine beer industry humor with
my affection for and tribute to the late Herb Caen,
who did a daily humor column in the San Francisco
Chronicle for nearly 60 years — without missing
a deadline, I might add. When we did our layout
revision in the last issue, it was suggested that
not many readers in our national audience knew of
Herb here in Northern California. We’ll keep
the Caen flame alive anyway. — Ed. |
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April/May
2011
Don
Younger, 1941–2011 Tom
Dalldorf |
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Don
Younger, famed publican extraordinaire and legendary
beer evangelist, died early Monday morning, January 31,
2011, of complications from a fall a few days earlier.
He was 69 years old.
Don was a “larger than life” character with
an enormous passion for beer, brewing and beer culture.
He loved meeting new people and spreading the word of
good beer but eschewed “phonies” and poseurs.
He also eschewed people who would say “eschewed.”
He was not a model for a healthy lifestyle, preferring
beer, whisky (make it Macallan 12, please — 18 if
ya got it) and cigarettes (Spirits will do) to more conventional
comestibles. It is suggested that both he and Patsy from
the BBC’s “Absolutely Fabulous” had
not had solid food since 1977. That is not true, of course
… but close.
A pub crawl with Don involved a ride in his beloved 1973
Thunderbird with a hood as long as an arena-size football
field. But parking never seemed a problem. He knew all
the great places and seemed to know just when to get there.
The truly worthy might be treated to a crawl of the great
beer places of Portland (in chronological order), beginning,
of course, with Produce Row. Great moments of beer education
not soon forgotten.
I first met Don at the Rogue
Ales Public House in Newport, Ore., before it moved
across the bay into the vast former boat storage facility.
Owner Jack Joyce told me I really needed to meet this
guy who owned a cool pub in Portland. Don looked to be
a cross between a thoroughly aged hippy and Gabby Hayes,
with puffy lips smacking at the possibility of another
great beer and slightly bulging, sparkling blue eyes that
seemed to take in everything. His smile and gracious,
welcoming demeanor were legend. He truly wanted to listen
to you, but get him started and tales of pubs past and
beers future spewed forth like first runnings.
I learned that a visit to Portland without a visit to
the Horse
Brass on Belmont was as vacuous as a light lager.
But Don was not a beer snob. He began as a light lager
drinker (there was precious else to drink in the ’70s)
and was indeed known locally as Captain Blatz. He famously
won his pub in a drunken card game, awaking with two headaches:
his own and his new ownership of a pub. Ouch. He maintained
that he had no idea what he was doing and that his early
success was due to blind dumb luck and an interest in
good beer.
As the Horse
Brass Pub prospered with adoring fans both local and
from distant lands (a sister pub in England is in mourning),
Don spread his wings and started other pubs to spread
the culture of good beer. Some worked and some faltered.
He learned and moved on. His legacy is manifest in his
surviving pubs and retail outlets.
But Don’s lifestyle proved to be a challenge. Oregon’s
chief beer scribe John Foyston reported: “Living
as he wanted included being a famously avid cigarette
smoker and a man who loved a pint or three with friends,
and those habits finally caught up with him, despite his
legendary Keith Richards–like constitution.”
If only he could have played guitar.
Don was a product of the ’50s and loved the music
of the era. He and his buddies would drive to hilltops
around central Oregon to pick up broadcasts of Wolfman
Jack at night from a 150,000-watt station across the border
in Mexico to hear the latest rock ’n’ roll
or doo-wop. He carried that outlaw spirit with him into
the 21st century.
His best-remembered aphorism (maybe because he kept repeating
it) sums up Don: “It’s not about the beer.
It’s about the beer!” Well said,
sir. I think. And ultimately, it’s not about Don
— it’s about Don. Your next visit
to the Horse
Brass should begin with a pint of Younger’s
Special Bitter, and remember: It’s named for his
brother Bill, not for Don. But we know better, don’t
we? |
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February/March
2011
Our 23rd Anniversary Issue Tom
Dalldorf |
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The craft beer industry (called
“microbrewing” back in the day) got its start
in California (Anchor, New Albion) and the Pacific Northwest
(Grant’s Yakima Brewing & Malting) over 30 years
ago. The Celebrator Beer News, then called the
California Celebrator, got its start in 1988
when only 20 breweries and brewpubs existed in all of
California. Founders Bret and Julie Nickels’s prescient
publication took on the task of documenting this nascent
industry as a labor of love. It certainly wasn’t
a source of enormous revenue.
Over the years, the Celebrator and the industry
it covers grew exponentially as the good-beer story began
to permeate every region of this great beer-drinking country.
This publication has been fortunate in developing a network
of skilled and knowledgeable writers to discover and report
on this expansive beer story. We have been equally fortunate
in acquiring the support of the industry for our financial
sustenance.
At 23 years and counting, the Celebrator staff
looks forward to the beer stories yet to come and to celebrating
the milestones of great brewing entities, such as the
recent 30-year anniversary of the iconic Sierra Nevada
Brewing Company in Chico, California.
It is you, dear beery reader, who keeps us in search of
the next big story, and it is our loyal advertisers who
provide the wherewithal for us to continue covering this
great industry. Please support our advertisers, as they
are the ones who really made our 23-year run possible.
Here’s to cheers and beers for another 23 years!
Beer Year 2010
Craft beer sales in 2010 continued to roll and boil like
a runaway brew kettle. Industry statistics continued to
impress the money guys while savvy beer consumers kept
demanding more rich and flavorful brews with character.
Meanwhile, overall beer sales volumes for the U.S. fell
again — this time by 2.2 percent (the highest rate
of decline since the 1950s).
Industry analysts suggest that the mergers creating MillerCoors
and Anheuser-Busch InBev (much to A-B’s chagrin)
— leaving only two major brewers making almost all
the industrial light lager — are putting pressure
on the new multinational conglomerates to raise prices
to pay off debts and increase profits. Naturally, the
same “industry experts” see the solution in
better marketing and holding price lines.
Notice there is never a mention of the flavor, character
or taste of the product itself. The big two, obviously
concerned with the decline in mainline products, are attempting
to pick up the slack by acquiring craft brands for their
disparate and desperate distribution channels. Meanwhile,
retailers are concerned with price increases and loss
of revenue. The demand for and margins made on craft beer
are looking more attractive and requiring more precious
shelf space. What’s a Big Guy brewer to do?
The year 2010 also saw a rapid consolidation in the craft
category. Joint ventures like Wynkoop Holdings and Breckenridge
Holding Company leveraged size and market branding while
benefiting from managerial and operational consolidation.
Mergers have also contributed to craft consolidation,
with industry veterans Gordon
Biersch (itself a consolidation of Big River and the
original GB from California) and Rock Bottom Restaurants
(including the vast Old Chicago chain) joining up to form
CraftWorks Restaurants & Breweries. Its own press
release stated: “The combined business becomes the
nation’s leading operator and franchisor of brewery
and craft beer–focused casual dining restaurants,
with nearly 200 owned and franchised locations across
the United States.” A consequence of this “vastness”
may be the loss of some great brewing talent as management
toes the corporate brewing line.
Seattle-based Pyramid Breweries bought Portland Brewing
for its more modern production facilities several years
ago. It was in turn bought out by Magic Hat Brewing from
Vermont, and last year that conglomeration was bought
out by North American Breweries, a company based on the
old Labatt distribution network that also owns Genesee
and Dundee brands. Are you with me so far?
In other recent merger and acquisition action, venerable
Hawaiian brewer Kona Brewing Company, whose bottled products
have long been produced at Widmer Brothers in Portland,
Oregon, was bought out by Widmer’s parent company,
Craft Brewers Alliance, which also owns Redhook and Goose
Island.
We can expect more corporate consolidations in the new
year. As beer lovers, our concern is with the quality
of the products going forward. Many smaller start-ups
are offering new choices for savvy beer consumers. We’ll
try to keep a handle on all the beery activity, so stay
tuned for more to come: 2011 could be a great year for
beer — but you’ll need a program! |
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LETTERS
TO THE EDITOR (February/March 2011)
Dear Editor:
I want to thank you for featuring Sierra Nevada
Brewing Company’s Ken Grossman in your October/November
2010 issue. The wait was well worth it. Oh, one
more thing: I hope that the absence of Hop Caen’s
“Heard It Through the Hop Vine” in the
[December] issue of the Celebrator was
an anomaly and that he’ll be back in future
issues.
Cheers,
Miles Jordan
Chico, California Dear Miles:
Thanks so much for your enthusiastic support
of beer in general and Sierra Nevada in particular.
Mr. Grossman’s amazing 30-year run at Sierra
deserves the name of one of his great beers —
Celebration! As to our equally laudable but doddering
scribe, Hop Caen, he was given a rest last issue
(i.e., space issue) but is back in this issue. Promise!
A Celebrator event T-shirt is heading your way.
— Ed.

Dear Editor:
I saw an issue of yours in my local brewery and
loved that it had lists scattered throughout it
of all breweries and brewpubs in the nation, broken
down by region. I was wondering if there was a way
to get that list. I didn’t see anything like
it on your website. Thanks for any information!
Eric Eads
Fort Collins, Colorado Dear
Eric: We try to keep track of
breweries and brewpubs in the Western U.S. and all
places that carry the Celebrator. For a comprehensive
digital guide to pubs and breweries, try Beer Mapping
or any of the other searchable databases available
for beer. And thanks for your kind words about the
Celebrator. We’re here for the beer. An event
T-shirt is heading your way. — Ed. |
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| Tom Dalldorf is publisher
and editor of the Celebrator Beer News. |
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